# BOOMER 2.8 FIXED SHOOTING

For 0 wind, wind against, and light wind towards.

0 wind (and weak winds towards enemy):
----------------------

Step 1: Measure the distance to your enemy using high angle
parts, like
81 full = 1.0 screen distance = 9 parts.
84 full = 2/3 screen distance = 6 parts.
87 full = 1/3 screen distance = 3 parts,
and so on.

Step 2: Double the number of parts and subtract your
So, if an enemy is 1 screen away that's 9 parts,
double that and you have 18 parts.
90 - 18 = 72.
Or, an enemy is 1/3 screens away (3 parts).
Double that and you have 6 parts.
90 - 6 = 84.

Step 3: Using the angle from step 2, fire with 2.8
bars of power and you will hit.

What's the advantage to using this when you already know how to hit
with full power?

1. Your screen is divided into 18 parts instead of just 9 big parts,
there's no place an enemy can hide between 2 angles. For example
using full power, there's no way to hit exactly half screen. Using
the 2.8 method, you can choose angles in between your usual high
angle spots (like to hit half screen you can use 81, 2.8 bars).

2. Looks cool, not many other people know it or use it.

3. Wind effect isn't as big when you use less power, making it
easier to adjust for wind.

4. You can add or reduce power from your miss, while a full power
shot cannot have power added to it.

0-5 wind: Raise your angle wind-1 angles. So in 4 wind, raise 3.
6-9 wind: Raise your angle wind*1 angles. So in 9 wind, raise 9.
10-13 wind: Raise your angle wind+1 angles. In 10 wind raise 11.
Over 13 wind is up to you, you might want to use a different shot.

Wind against you
----------------

1. You can imagine the screen being divided into 60 parts, or if
you use the familiar hook and cbchui 30-part measurements, imagine
that each screen part is doubled. Measure the distance to your enemy
based on 60 parts (or 30 parts * 2).

1/4 screen = 15 parts.
1/3 screen = 20 parts.
1/2 screen = 30 parts.
2/3 screen = 40 parts.
3/4 screen = 45 parts.
1.0 screen = 60 parts.

Subtract the number of parts (based on enemy distance) from 90.

So an enemy 2/3 screen away is 40 parts, 90-40 = 50.

2. Adjust for wind by lowering your angle.
Use this windchart - ignore the text at the top, you're not using 75/60 as half
and full screen now... you're using 60 and 30:

So for example, in 10 wind pointing down and back, lower 7 angles.
The +1 to +5 means add 1 to 5 angles depending on how strong the
upwards wind is.

3. Shoot with 2.8 bars of power.

The advantage to this: There isn't much advantage but it's cool to
know and very accurate (60 part screen). It's good for near 1 screen
distance. Too much closer and your angle will be near 60 and risk
a backshot. Too much further and 2.8 bars isn't enough power to reach.
If the formula tells you to use an angle below 20 or so, you'd better
do a bit more than 2.8 bars because the wind is so strong.

If you have trouble calculating this but calculate hook shots well,
you are simply lowering your angle by twice as much as you would
for making a hook shot (BEFORE wind adjustment). So if you calculate
hooks properly (30 parts to 1 screen) you only need to count the
number of parts between you and the enemy, double the answer, and
subtract from 90... then reduce (or increase) your angle further
based on Vexez' hook wind chart. Remember angles near 60 risk a
backshot, this formula isn't really for 1/2 screen shots, it's for
long shots - 3/4 screen or more.